Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and tourists alike swearing by its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, UNESCO honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a prestigious list of world cities and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it enters a international community of cities metropolises across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "demonstrates its profound culinary traditions and lively food ecosystem," as noted by a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this venerable city comes as little surprise to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, lively, and diverse city – the capital of India's most populous state – is now in the global gaze for what has consistently characterized its heart: an profound passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a constant conversation from morning until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, refined, and raised to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, merging Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. The story goes that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover securely closed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates local ingredients but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on many street corners, there are little shops and stalls – little-known delights that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a unpretentious joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and demanding. The cook hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but say that their children are unwilling to master the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will motivate more people around the world to explore these tales and travel to the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
